Friday, 3 October 2014

A brief escape to Spain across the Pyrenees


With Ruth’s parents on holiday from Wales, the team decided to walk the trek over the Pyrenees from France into Spain on the Libertie Trail.  This is the escape route used by around tens-of-thousands of people escaping the Nazi’s in World War II.  This is he trek Ruth had guided the previous week (in 3 days) and would take Ruth, Rob, John and Pam 2 days (9 hours walking on day one and 5 hours the next day) over the mountain pass. 

 
 
 


My job was easier – to be the pick-up crew, dropping them off on the French side, driving over the Pyrenees and picking them up in Spain the next day.
 

 
The mountains are a mix of rolling green foothills, rising to majestic mountains with sheer cliffs.  In between are the veins/arteries of roads joining old villages with cobbled streets, small churches with steeples and bells and stone houses with shuttered windows.
 


The border crossing was seamless for me (literally!)-driving down the motorway in France and seeing a sign saying Espanol – no checkpoint, no border stop.  Just a kiwi on an Irish passport driving an Italian car licensed in France across to Spain.  Very cosmopolitan (and glad I didn’t need to stop to explain that to anyone).
 

Two hours into the Spanish side of the Pyrenees and driving up a steep though wide and very well maintained road – chair lifts of one of the ski fields on either side –beautiful chalets dotted around, horses feasting on lush grass under the chair lifts.  There is a pub on the roadside and I stop to confirm directions.  That night I stay at Estari d'anu, Lleida, Spain , in a hostel- a 100 year old stone hotel in a large though sparse and comfortable room.  The town seems deserted. I head out to get some dinner at 7.30 – none of the restaurants are open (strange!);  there are a couple of pubs with menus and I inquire about food.  The waiter switches between Spanish, French, German and finally English to tell me that none of the restaurants open until 8.30pm.  He looks at me like I’m from Mars not knowing this. 

Sure enough, town erupts into life after 8.30pm and I enjoy some of the local food.   The next day I found out that the shops don’t tend to open until around 10.00am, close at around 2.00, re-open around 4.00 (unless you are a restaurant) and stay open until quite late (anywhere up to 10.00pm)


Driving to the pick-up rendezvous the day before the actual pick-up (just to confirm the location) it is like driving back in time.  A single lane (though 2-way!) tarsealed road morphs itself into a single lane dirt road with the odd ruin of stone buildings or stables . Occasionally the bumpy ride is interrupted by a meandering herd of cattle walking down the same road.  There’s plenty of warning that they are there –you can hear the cow bells ringing for miles and, sure enough, round the corner the herd is swaying down the road.  There are hardly any people; one or two anglers in their waders  at hip height in the gently flowing and crystal clear river.  The mountains rise on either side – it is a crisp day, the sun shining and blue sky but the temperature reminding that this is autumn and that this road is 1200m above sea level. 
 
 

While still the Pyrenees, this Spanish side has quite a different feel to it than the French side.  The cliffs rise up more abruptly into grey sentinels,   the main roads have hardly any traffic and it is hard to believe that this country is in a difficult recession when you see the quality of the roading infrastructure on the main highways and tributary roads.

My rendezvous is for 1.00pm on Sunday.  I awake to the sound of church bells at 6.00 competing with a local rooster.  A brief walk up into town leads onto a trail that heads up a single bush track up to an old castle ruin.  The flags on the hilltop a reminder that this is actually not Spain at all – but Catalonia.  [On this trip I’ve realised that Spain actually does not exist – rather a geographic cluster of fiercely independent group of autonomous communities (including Catalonia, Basque Country, Galicia, Andalusia and others]).

My drive to the rendezvous this time interrupted by a sea of sheep being shepherded down the road  - again with (cow?) bells. 

The troops successfully negotiated the mountain pass avoiding the gestapo and look amazingly refreshed and relaxed for2 days across the pass. 


We adjourn to the village for lunch.  John and I try the barbequed rabbit – a local dish that is as nice as that I tried in Portugal.  That’s the last time I feed the rabbits I shoot on our farm to our dogs (now I have the recipe for something other than rabbit stew).
 


We meander down the road to the nearby village of Sort in Lleida Spain (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sort,_Lleida) .  Rob and John are in their element and like teenagers as they look at the river.  They are both keen kayakers and this is the site of the 2014 World freestyle Kayaking championships.  There is a permanent course laid out with the dam nearby allowing the flow to be regulated. 


This is also home to some exceptional rock climbing nearby in Collegats-Queralt.  We overnight at the camp ground in Sort and spend the next morning climbing – these cliffs are incredible and stretch  straight upward touching the sky at ridiculously high altitudes.  Rob has brought along his 80m rope so we can climb some of these routes without needing to multi-pitch.  Other than one other climbing group of 3, we are the only ones there – below is an old disused road (since a tunnel has replaced it) and it feel surreal belaying from the roadside onto some majestic looking cliffs.  The rock formations have been shaped into unusual arches by water falls and flow from the mountain – this is the site of inspiration drawn upon by Gaudi for some of his designs.  It feels strangely exhilarating having visited Sagrada Familia in Barcelona to now be climbing in the middle of the Pyrenees at one of the sites that inspired some of Gaudi’s themes. 
 

 
 We get about 2 hours climbing in before the heavens open.  Whoever said “The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain” has not visited here!   The forecast is for more of the same so we decamp a day early and head back to France taking a route that completes the circle of the loop I drove a few days earlier.  Three hours later and we are safely ensconced back at the Gite in Loubuerres, France. 

 

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