Kalymnos - some of the local characters

Some of the local characters

"Don’t you ever stop working?” The elderly  gentleman is sitting outside the sponge shop with his old hand shearing shears shaping the sea sponges.  He has wizened and serious look though this breaks out into a smile as he greets me.

I’ve walked past him most mornings and most nights sitting in the same place as I have walked from the apartment in Kalymnos.  Usually it has been the obligatory “Kalymera (good morning”) or "Kalyspera (good evening)".  It’s my second to last night here and I am early to join my new climbing buddies for dinner.

“What’s your name?” he asks “Andrew…Andreas” (I have adopted the habit of localising my name in the countries that have a derivative for it – easier for people to remember and makes more of a local connection with them.

He smiles – “Janus…John” he reciprocates – and with it the faint hint of an Australian accent.

I’ve learned on this trip that judging any book by its cover is never a good idea.  Janus reminds me of this.  The Australian accent was hard earned

Perth – in my younger years. Construction then a taxi driver. 9 Years in Australia. Janos has been back here for many years now – well, domiciled here.  He’s actually been travelling the world marketing the sponges.  “These days the Internet simplifies things,” he says “…and I’m tired of the travel.  Nick, my son, went to university in London and he operates the accommodation side of the business .“ (where I am staying).  Turns out the Janos sponge business exports to Asia (less so now) the US and other regions. 

kalymnos has a famous (and sometimes sad) history of sponge diving.

http://www.greeka.com/dodecanese/kalymnos/sponge-diving-tradition.htm

 

Nick is in his office as we talk the next morning. He has kindly printed out my plane tickets for me.  “I love this place.  It’s a good way of life for me- I can catch up with friends any time, the business is seasonal and doing OK.  It’s my kids I’m worried about.  Greece was poor with money management.  People in my parents era negotiated great conditions with their employers and the government…which the country couldn’t afford. Now this is all coming home to rest on the next generation.  My children’s generation.”

It’s a similar story from Dmitrious at the dive club.  He has two kids and a 3rdonthe way.   Australia beckons and with  it the promise of good rates as a commercial and maintenance/inspection diver.  “Living here is like living in paradise.  Trouble is it does not earn you good enough money to provide for your family in the long run.”

Paradise interrupted – the reality behind living on an ideal Greek island.

Still – there are ready smiles and open conversation.  The thread that runs through this is family. 

 

Sunrise Café – a perfect breakfast (or dinner)

The food and service is great at the Sunrise café – a good way to greet the morning. 

It’s the 12^th of November and Niktarious is serving his last meal of this year – to me.  It is a quiet night and things have been getting steadily quieter.  The locals and some of the return climbers tell me that this is really the week of attrition where business usually shut-up shop for the end of the season.  It is only a few stalwarts who remain open to service the remaining (and dwindling) number or tourists (mainly climbers) who remain through the next few months.

I buy Niktarius and me an Ouzo at the end of my meal and we share conversation.  “Glad you are closing up for the year now?” I ask.

“Yes.  It’s been a good season.  Busy.  But I’m tired.  In peak season I open at 8.00am and close at anywhere up to 3a.m.  We have to make the most of the season.”

I ask when he will open again.  “I’ll be here all of March preparing and may open for a few days depending on demand.  I’ll officially open in April.”  April to November – full on.  Niktarius family has a house and farm on a nearby island.  He will do some work on that for a few weeks then decamp on holiday – somewhere overseas for a month or so.  Well earned.