Montenegro - a hidden pearl in the Adriatic

What a place!

Come here!

This is like an unspoilt and quieter Riviera of Eastern Europe. 
A chance choice to cut short my stay in Dubrovnik and exchange 3 days in Montenegro was a good one.

A 2 hour drive from Dubrovnik including a border crossing and  Ferry ride and I am in Tivat, Montenegro*.   This is an ex naval port that has been converted (by an Irishman no less!) into a port for super-yachts.  So the story goes, as the super-yachts get bigger, the owners are starting to complain that the ports and moorings for their vessels are too small.  Given that this used to be a naval base, none of that problem here. 

* A word of warning - for the return journey add an hour for the Montenegro border crossing into Croatia -and don't drive a late model black Mercedes (all of which seemed to get special attention for being searched - no problem for me - my budget didn't quite extend to a rental Mercedes)

view from my apartment in Tivat

Looking out from my apartment on the waterfront, this certainly is a toybox (of the bath tub variety).  The ships glisten in the warm and light blue water as the sun bakes the bay to a balmy 30 degrees.  It is a natural harbour sheltered from open waters and has a relaxed atmosphere. 

While I base myself in Tivat, having a car means I can go to some of the other towns.  In fact, having a car here is really a pre-requisite to making the trip worthwhile. I hired a car at Dubrovnik airport.  Including cross border documentation (which the rental car company charges an extra 29 euro for - and is a necessity for cross border travel) the cost of the opel is a princely 195 euros for 6 days (which include my days in Dubrovnik).  Driving for the first time in 6 weeks and the opposite side of the road doesn't take too much getting use to.  The roads are wide and good and the traffic light.  The view of the sea along the coast is breath taking.

While the currency in Montenegro is the Euro, it doesn't seem to suffer the same issue on prices as some of the other countries that use the currency.  As I write this, I am sipping my 1.20 Euro beer (interestingly, the same price as the [very good] coffee) - and cheaper than bottled spring water! 

Walled fortifications - Kotor

I have found my summer home.   OK, actually paying for it might take some negotiation...need to think about that.




Kotor walled fort - looking down on the town

Given I'm only here for 3 days, I have only scratched the surface.  The national parks here are meant to be beautiful.  They are inland and my hankering for warm, calm water trumps any national parks on this trip (and I think New Zealand is a bit of a Cathedral for worship of nature).  Instead, I keep to the coastline and some wonderful historical towns.  Tivat is modern and a good base as it is large, easy to navigate and close to the Croation border (for my return journey).  Nearby, within a 20 minute drive is the astounding town of Kotor.

 If fortifications are your thing, then that in Kotor dwarves the engineering of Dubrovnik.  It is probably the same circumference (bigger I would hazard a guess), but the Kotor keep is built straight up an almost-vertical cliff face. 

Kotor cathedral - built 890AD

The landscape along the coast is surreal.  A coastline with beautiful beaches and old houses, monasteries and towns  cloaked in rocky hills that go vertical very quickly and stretch up to <500 meters within 400 m of the sea.  A shop keeper proudly shows me a hand-knitted jersey and tries to explain to me about a very special wool they have over here...called Merino.  While I am on the coast, reading about the mountains and hills, it is no surprise that, in the balmy 30 degree heat, she is trying to fit me out for the inevitable winter.  Not me thanks...I'm looking forward to 2 summers in a row.


Montenegro is a bit of a quiet hideaway for some of the rich and famous (apparently).  You won't see them around Tivat - as there is a private resort further up the coast they gravitate to.  What is apparent is that Tivat's airport is the closest drop off point for them.  With 6 unmarked Lear Jets parked up when I drove past yesterday, and a runway that would rival some of the mid size airports in New Zealand, they certainly cater as an adventure playground here.  Surprisingly  the costs don't reflect that (yet!)

Lions at the gate of Kotor Wall 

Places

• Tivat home base  - modern, comfortable and good driving times and conditions as a base.  Great swimming
• Kotor - See earlier comment re amazing beaches, calm water and beautiful castle walls
• Perast (my chosen summer home!).  An ex navy training base from the 17th century.
• Budva - drove there (1 hour).  Took one look, turned around and came straight back to Kotor).Modern feel, busy, touristy...too much for this country boy.