This is Perast, Montenegro.
Say it in a whisper as you would in any church – for that is
what it is – a cathedral to natural beauty. Also, I really don’t want many
people to find out about it.
If ever there was a Dr Who episode dedicated to seafaring –
this is where it should be set.
With one foot set in the 10th century as a city
of the Byzantine Empire, an 18th century naval training base and ship-building port and
the other set in the modern era of a haven for super-yachts, the span of the
feet encompasses a rich tapestry of history.
The jewel in the crown of the bay is Our Lady of the Rocks, the small
church on the man-made island of rock in the bay.
It is the only natural fjord in the Adriatic. A happy coincidence of geography that
provides a port and safe harbour within a safe harbour and surrounded by hills
that many would describe as rocky mountains.
The water perennially calm and warm, the surroundings
reflect back a terracotta and limestone monument to the sea and the bay.
Taking these waters is akin to the healing waters of a
natural spa – just in a basin that is miles wide, the entrance to which is a
hidden alcove a few hundred meters across. Average 240 days of sunshine per
year and average temperature of 18 degrees Celsius. It is the tail end of summer when I arrive
and the temperature is 31 degrees.
The rock and surroundings are agnostic to those many
cultures who have laid claim to ownership of it. Whoever the stewards are of it, they add
their piece of interpretation to the existing buildings and architecture. Regardless of “territorial flag”, the
constant is the sailors of many nationalities who visit here to pay respects
and thanks for surviving a close encounter at sea with their maker to the
Virgin Mary on the Rock, patron saint to sailors. This is attested to by the
many tin or silver sketching's that can be found on the walls. Legion in number these date back to the 17th
century and are as recent at August 2014.
our lady of the rock |
This is my ideal place – just being around here seems to charge
the soul’s batteries.
In fact, ignore this meander of mine. Just be content to go to Dubrovnik’s old town
– but if I’m anywhere in the vicinity, you know where to find me.
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